Two Key Points About Daffodil Maintenance

Daffodil maintenance is pretty straightforward and not something to get concerned or obsessed about.

To begin with - get them planted properly. If you plant them so the bottom of the bulb is six inches deep, you'll have the first step done right.

I normally try to plant mine about 6-8 weeks before the ground gets really cold and frosty. Here in zone 4, that means I'm planting around mid to late-October.

When the come up in the spring - and they will because nothing eats daffodils - you get to enjoy those gorgeous colors.


Narcissus 'Quail'


When the bulbs are done you have one choice to make. Whether to deadhead or not.

Deadheading means to cut the spent flower stalk off right down at the base of the stem (do not cut off any leaves at this point)

I tend not to do this deadheading because I want my bulbs to set seed - ripen that seed and allow the seed to fall into the garden so my bulbs will naturalize. I'll get more of them as they spread naturally. But this is up to you. I note that in some gardens, the hybrids will not set seed or will not come true from seed (I tend to grow species or old-fashioned varieties) so deadheading is a good idea to keep the garden neat.

Most Important Thing

The real trick to growing a great bulb is to not cut off the foliage before it starts to turn yellow. I know this can take some time and this foliage gets in the way of planting annuals or enjoying flowering perennials but the reality is that the leaves are pumping sunlight-energy down to the bulbs for next year's flowers.

If you don't let them do this, you won't see flowers next year as the bulb won't have the necessary energy.

Book cover spring bulbs

Once the leaves turn yellow- daffodil maintenance kicks into gear and you simply trim the leaves down to the ground and forget about the daffodils for another season.

That's it. No fuss or muss.


Narcissus recurvus

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